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Yves Saint Laurent Ysl Fashion House

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French mode designer (1936–2008)

Yves Saint-Laurent
Yves Saint Laurent (1958).png

Saint Laurent in 1958
Built-in

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent


(1936-08-01)one August 1936

Oran, French People's democratic republic of algeria
Died 1 June 2008(2008-06-01) (aged 71)

Paris, French republic
Nationality French
Didactics Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture
Occupation Way designer

Label(s)

 Yves Saint Laurent
Partner(southward) Pierre Bergé

Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent (, as well , , French: [iv sɛ̃ lɔʁɑ̃]; 1 August 1936 – ane June 2008),[1] referred to as Yves Saint-Laurent or YSL, was a French way designer who, in 1962, founded his eponymous manner label. He is regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers of the twentieth century.[2] In 1985, Caroline Milbank wrote, "The most consistently historic and influential designer of the past twenty-five years, Yves Saint Laurent can be credited with both spurring the couture's rise from its 1960s ashes and with finally rendering ready-to-habiliment reputable."[three] He developed his fashion to suit the changes in fashion during that period. He approached his aesthetic from a different perspective by helping women find conviction by looking both comfortable and elegant at the same time. He is also credited with having introduced the "Le Smoking" tuxedo suit for women and was known for his employ of non-European cultural references and of diverse models.[4]

Early life [edit]

Saint Laurent was born on 1 August 1936, in Oran, French Algeria,[five] [six] to French parents, Charles and Lucienne Andrée Mathieu-Saint-Laurent.[7] He grew upward in a villa by the Mediterranean with his two younger sisters, Michèle and Brigitte.[7] Saint Laurent liked to create intricate newspaper dolls, and by his early teen years, he was designing dresses for his mother and sisters. At the age of 17, Saint Laurent moved to Paris and enrolled at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, where his designs chop-chop gained find. Michel De Brunhoff, the editor of French Vogue, introduced Saint Laurent to designer Christian Dior, a behemothic in the way world. "Dior fascinated me," Saint Laurent later recalled. "I couldn't speak in front of him. He taught me the basis of my art. Whatever was to happen side by side, I never forgot the years I spent at his side." Under Dior's tutelage, Saint Laurent's style continued to mature and gain even more find.[viii]

Personal life and career [edit]

Immature designer [edit]

In 1953, Saint Laurent submitted three sketches to a competition for immature fashion designers organized by the International Wool Secretariat. Saint Laurent won first place. Later on, he was invited to attend the awards ceremony held in Paris in December of that aforementioned twelvemonth.[9]

During his stay in Paris, Saint Laurent met Michel de Brunhoff (who was then editor-in-chief of the French edition of Faddy magazine and a connection to his begetter). De Brunhoff, known by some as a considerate person who encouraged new talent, was impressed by the sketches that Saint Laurent brought with him and suggested he should intend to become a way designer. Saint Laurent would somewhen consider a form of written report at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, the council which regulates the haute couture industry and provides training to its employees. Saint Laurent followed his advice and, leaving Oran for Paris after graduation, began his studies there and somewhen graduated every bit a star pupil. After, that same year, he entered the International Wool Secretariat competition again and won, chirapsia out his friend Fernando Sánchez and young High german student Karl Lagerfeld.[10]

Shortly afterward his win, he brought a number of sketches to de Brunhoff who recognized close similarities to sketches he had been shown that forenoon by Christian Dior. Knowing that Dior had created the sketches that morning time and that the young man could not have seen them, de Brunhoff sent him to Dior, who hired him on the spot.[11]

Although Dior recognised his talent immediately, Saint Laurent spent his get-go year at the House of Dior on mundane tasks, such as decorating the studio and designing accessories. Somewhen, all the same, he was allowed to submit sketches for the couture collection; with every passing season, more of his sketches were accepted by Dior. In Baronial 1957, Dior met with Saint Laurent'due south female parent to tell her that he had called Saint Laurent to succeed him as a designer. His mother later said that she had been dislocated by the remark, every bit Dior was only 52 years old at the fourth dimension. Both she and her son were surprised when in October of that year Dior died at a health spa in northern Italy of a massive heart attack.[x]

Yves Saint Laurent trapeze apparel for Dior, 1958.

In 1957, Saint Laurent found himself at age 21 the head designer of the House of Dior. His spring 1958 collection near certainly saved the enterprise from fiscal ruin.[12] [xiii] The simple, flaring lines of his outset drove for Dior,[14] called the Trapeze line,[xv] [16] a variation of Dior'southward 1955 A-Line,[17] [18] [19] catapulted him to international distinction. Dresses in the collection featured a narrow shoulder that flared gently to a hem that just covered the genu. At that time, he shortened his surname to Saint Laurent because the international printing found his hyphenated triple proper noun difficult to express.[ citation needed ]

His fall 1958 collection was not greeted with the same level of approval every bit his beginning drove and later collections for the Firm of Dior featuring hobble skirts and crackpot fashions were savaged past the printing.[20]

In 1959, he was called past Farah Diba, who was a student in Paris, to design her nuptials dress for her union to the Shah of Iran.[ citation needed ]

In 1960, Saint Laurent found himself conscripted to serve in the French Regular army during the Algerian State of war of Independence.[21] Alice Rawsthorn writes that at that place was speculation at the time that Marcel Boussac, the possessor of the House of Dior and a powerful press businesswoman, had put pressure on the government not to conscript Saint Laurent in 1958 and 1959, but subsequently the disastrous 1958 flavor, reversed course and asked that the designer be conscripted so that he could be replaced.[ citation needed ]

Conscription, affliction and independence [edit]

Dresses from the Mondrian collection, 1965

Examples of Saint Laurent's tendency-setting Le Smoking evening trouser-suit for women.

A lady's trouser conform past Yves Saint Laurent.

Saint Laurent was in the military for 20 days before the stress of hazing by young man soldiers led to him existence admitted to a military hospital, where he received news that he had been fired from Dior. This exacerbated his condition, and he was transferred to Val-de-Grâce military hospital, where he was given large doses of sedatives and psychoactive drugs, and subjected to electroshock therapy.[22] Saint Laurent himself traced the origin of both his mental bug and his drug addictions to this time in hospital.[10]

After his release from the hospital in November 1960, Saint Laurent sued Dior for breach of contract and won. After a period of convalescence, he and his partner, industrialist Pierre Bergé, started their own fashion house Yves Saint Laurent YSL with funds from American millionaire J. Mack Robinson.[23] The couple separate romantically in 1976 just remained business partners.[24]

In the 1960s and 1970s, the house popularized fashion trends such every bit the beatnik look, safari jackets for men and women, tight trousers, tall, thigh-high boots, and arguably the most famous classic tuxedo conform for women in 1966, Le Smoking. The 1965 Mondrian drove was especially renowned, and his Russian peasant collections of the mid-1970s were also acclaimed.[25] [26] [27] Saint Laurent also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s[ citation needed ] and is credited with initiating in 1978 the broad, shoulder-padded styles that would characterize the 1980s.[28] [29] Yves Saint Laurent brought in new changes to the fashion industry in the 60s and the 70s. The French designer opened his Pret-a-Porter House YSL Rive Gauche in 1967 where he was starting to shift his focus from Haute Couture to Ready-to-habiliment. One of the purposes was to provide a wider range of fashionable styles being available to choose from in the market as they were affordable and cheaper.

He was the first French couturier to come out with a full prêt-à-porter (fix-to-wear) line, although Alicia Drake credits this move with Saint Laurent'due south wish to democratize fashion;[30] others[ who? ] indicate out that other couture houses were preparing prêt-à-porter lines at the same time – the Business firm of Yves Saint Laurent merely appear its line first. The first of the company's Rive Gauche stores, which sold the prêt-à-porter line, opened on the rue de Tournon in the 6th arrondissement of Paris, on 26 September 1966. The first customer was Catherine Deneuve.[10] He ended up doing many costumes for her in films such as Heartbeat, Mississippi Mermaid, and Love to Eternity. [31]

Many of his collections were positively received past both his fans and the printing, such as the fall 1965 drove, which introduced Le Smoking tailored tuxedo suit. Other collections raised controversy, such every bit his spring 1971 collection, which was inspired by 1940s fashion. Some felt information technology romanticized the German occupation of French republic during Globe War Two, which he did not experience, while others felt it brought back the unattractive utilitarianism of the time. The French newspaper France Soir called the spring 1971 collection "Une grande farce!"[10] Aside from this collection, however, he came to be considered during the 1970s the most prominent designer in the earth, adapting his designs to modern women's needs.[32] [33]

During the 1960s and 1970s, Saint Laurent was considered one of Paris'southward "jet set".[30] He was often seen at clubs in French republic and New York Metropolis, such as Regine's and Studio 54, and was known to be both a heavy drinker and a frequent user of cocaine.[10] When he was non actively supervising the preparation of a collection, he spent time at his villa in Marrakech, Kingdom of morocco. In the tardily 1970s, he and Bergé bought a neo-gothic villa, Château Gabriel in Benerville-sur-Mer, about Deauville, France. Yves Saint Laurent was a great admirer of Marcel Proust who had been a frequent guest of Gaston Gallimard, 1 of the previous owners of the villa. When they bought Château Gabriel, Saint Laurent and Bergé commissioned Jacques Grange to decorate information technology with themes inspired by Proust's Remembrance of Things Past.[34]

The prêt-à-porter line became extremely popular with the public if not with the critics and somewhen earned many times more for Saint Laurent and Bergé than the haute couture line. Yet, Saint Laurent, whose wellness had been precarious for years, became erratic under the pressure of designing two haute couture and two prêt-à-porter collections every twelvemonth. He increasingly turned to alcohol and drugs.[35] At some shows, he could barely walk down the runway at the cease of the testify, and he had to be supported by models.[36] [ commendation needed ]

Following his 1978 introduction of the big-shoulder-pad looks[37] that would boss the 1980s, he relied on a restricted set of styles based largely on big-shouldered jackets, narrow skirts, and pumps[38] [39] that didn't vary much during the decade,[twoscore] [41] resulting in some manner writers bemoaning the loss of his former inventiveness[42] [43] and others praising the familiarity.[44] [45] After a disastrous 1987 prêt-à-porter show in New York Urban center, which featured The states$100,000 jeweled casual jackets but days later on the "Black Monday" stock market crash, he turned over the responsibility of the prêt-à-porter line to his assistants. Although the line remained popular with his fans, it was soon dismissed as "boring" by the press.[10]

Afterwards life [edit]

A favorite amid his female clientele, Saint Laurent had numerous muses that inspired his work. Among them were: French model Victoire Doutreleau,[46] who opened his first fashion show in 1962;[47] Loulou de la Falaise,[46] [48] the daughter of a French marquis and an Anglo-Irish model, who became the jewelry designer for the make;[49] Betty Catroux,[46] [48] the half-Brazilian daughter of an American diplomat, who Saint Laurent considered his "twin sister";[fifty] French actress Catherine Deneuve;[46] [48] French model Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain,[51] who inspired the Le Smoking suit;[52] Mounia,[46] [48] a model from Martinique who was the oft-used bride at his fashion shows; Lucie de la Falaise,[53] a Welsh-French model and niece of Loulou, who was the bride in his style shows in 1990–1994; Jewelry designer Paloma Picasso;[46] [48] Dutch extra Talitha Getty;[54] [55] American socialite Nan Kempner,[56] [57] who was named administrator for the brand;[58] Italian model Marina Schiano,[46] [48] who managed the YSL boutiques in Northward America; French model Nicole Dorier,[59] who became the director of his runway shows,[60] and later, the "memory" of his firm when it became a museum; and French model Laetitia Casta,[61] who was the bride in his way shows in 1998–2001.[62]

In 1983, Saint Laurent became the first living way designer to exist honored past the Metropolitan Museum of Art with a solo exhibition. In 2001, he was awarded the rank of Commander of the Légion d'Honneur by French President Jacques Chirac. Saint Laurent retired in 2002 and became increasingly reclusive, living at his homes in Normandy and Morocco with his pet French Bulldog Moujik.[ citation needed ] In 2007, he was awarded the rank of M officier de la Légion d'honneur past French President Nicolas Sarkozy.[63] [64] He besides created a foundation with Bergé in Paris to trace the history of the house of YSL, complete with 15,000 objects and 5,000 pieces of article of clothing.[65]

Death [edit]

Saint Laurent died on 1 June 2008 of brain cancer at his residence in Paris.[66] Co-ordinate to The New York Times,[67] a few days prior, he and Bergé had been joined in a aforementioned-sex civil union known as a Pacte ceremonious de solidarité (PACS) in French republic. When Saint Laurent was diagnosed equally terminal, with only one or two weeks left to live, Bergé and the doc mutually decided that information technology would be better for him not to know of his impending death. Bergé said, "I have the conventionalities that Yves would not have been strong enough to accept that."[68]

He was given a Cosmic funeral at Église Saint-Roch in Paris.[69] The funeral attendees included the former Empress of Iran Farah Pahlavi, Bernadette Chirac, Catherine Deneuve, and President Nicolas Sarkozy and his wife, Carla Bruni.[70]

His body was cremated and his ashes were scattered in Marrakech, Morocco, in the Majorelle Garden, a residence and botanical garden that he owned with Bergé since 1980 and oft visited to observe inspiration and refuge.[71] Bergé said at the funeral service (in French): "But I as well know that I will never forget what I owe you and that one 24-hour interval I will join you nether the Moroccan palms."

Legacy [edit]

In February 2009, an auction of 733 items was held by Christie'due south at the Chiliad Palais, ranging from paintings by Picasso to ancient Egyptian sculptures. Saint Laurent and Bergé began collecting art in the 1950s; before the sale, Bergé commented that the decision to sell the collection was taken because, without Saint Laurent, "it has lost the greater part of its significance", with the gain proposed for the creation of a new foundation for AIDS research.[ citation needed ]

Earlier the sale commenced, the Chinese government tried to stop the sale of 2 of twelve bronze statue heads taken from the Old Summer Palace in China during the Second Opium War. A French guess dismissed the claim and the sculptures, heads of a rabbit and a rat, sold for €15,745,000.[72] All the same, the bearding buyer revealed himself to be Cai Mingchao, a representative of the PRC's National Treasures Fund, and claimed that he would non pay for them on "moral and patriotic grounds".[73] The heads remained in Bergé's possession[74] until acquired past François Pinault, owner of many luxury brands including Yves Saint Laurent. He then donated them to China in a anniversary on 29 June 2013.[75]

On the outset day of the sale, Henri Matisse's painting Les coucous, tapis bleu et rose broke the previous world record prepare in 2007 for a Matisse piece of work and sold for 32 1000000 euros. The record-breaking auction realized 342.5 meg euros (£307 meg).[76] The subsequent auction, 17–20 November, included 1,185 items from the couple's Normandy villa and while not every bit impressive equally the first auction, featured the designer's concluding Mercedes-Benz car and his Hermès luggage.[77]

Forbes rated Saint Laurent the top-earning expressionless glory in 2009.[78]

In popular culture [edit]

On film [edit]

  • 2002: David Teboul's Yves Saint Laurent: His Life and Times [79]
  • 2002: Yves Saint Laurent: v Artery Marceau 75116 Paris [80]
  • 2009: Pierre Thoretton'south L'Amour Fou [81]
  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent [82]
  • 2014: Saint Laurent [83]

Goggle box [edit]

  • 1965: Appeared on 25 October every bit a "mystery guest" on the American television game show What'southward My Line? [84]

Books [edit]

  • 2014: Yves Saint Laurent: A Moroccan Passion, Pierre Bergé, illustrated by Lawrence Mynott, Abrams, ISBN 978-1419713491[85]
  • 2017: Dior by YSL, Laurence Benaïm, photography by Laziz Hamani, Assouline, ISBN 9781614285991[86]
  • 2020: Yves Saint Laurent: The Incommunicable Drove, Laurence Benaïm, Assouline, ISBN 9781614289425[87]

See as well [edit]

  • BathingSuit1920s.jpg Way portal

References [edit]

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  12. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1948-1959". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities of Celebrities and Fashion from British Faddy. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 204–205. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. Yves Saint Laurent...at the age of 21 establish himself perched upon the multi-1000000 franc edifice of the well-nigh influential fashion house in the globe....[W]ith his kickoff collection,...he launched the [T]rapeze line....'Saint Laurent has saved France!' said the French headlines. 'The slap-up Dior tradition will go along!'
  13. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 251. ISBN0-670-80172-0. For the nation'south largest industry, the well-being of its almost prominent couture firm was of great social and economic importance....Saint Laurent's kickoff collection...was a resounding success.
  14. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Vogue History of 20th Century Way. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 254. ISBN0-670-80172-0. The dress sloped downward from the shoulders to a widened hem just below the knee, maintaining a definite geometric line through precise tailoring.
  15. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1958". In Vogue: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. pp. 246, 247. ISBN0-14-00-4955-X. Saint Laurent's [T]rapeze line, backbone of his successful outset drove for Dior.
  16. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1958". Faddy History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Group. p. 254. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Saint Laurent's offset collection introduced a new silhouette, the wedge-shaped 'Trapeze'...
  17. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1948-1959". In Vogue: Threescore Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 204. ISBN0-14-00-4955-Ten. ...[W]ith his outset drove,...[Saint Laurent] launched the [T]rapeze line – not too different from Dior's A line, merely just different plenty.
  18. ^ Howell, Georgina (1978). "1955". In Faddy: Sixty Years of Celebrities and Fashion from British Vogue. Harmondsworth, Middlesex, England: Penguin Books Ltd. p. 239. ISBN0-14-00-4955-10. Dior produces his new A line, a triangle widened from a small head and shoulders to a full pleated or stiffened hem.
  19. ^ Mulvagh, Jane (1988). "1955". Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion. London, England: Viking, the Penguin Grouping. p. 230. ISBN0-670-80172-0. Dior'south...'A' line consisted of coats, suits and dresses flared out into wide triangles from narrow shoulders. The waistline was the cross bar of the A and could be positioned either nether the bosom in an Empire manner or low down on the hips.
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  26. ^ Morris, Bernadine (7 April 1976). "Saint Laurent Was Hailed and Adored; For Kenzo, Tumult and Frency". The New York Times: 47. Retrieved 18 Feb 2022. Next fall's peasants, according to Saint Laurent, volition wear boots and babushkas...
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  29. ^ Donovan, Carrie (12 November 1978). "Why the Big Alter Now". The New York Times: 226. Retrieved 18 November 2021. What Saint Laurent sprang on the fashion world last January when he introduced human‐tailored conform jackets with shoulders squared out with padding...has at present become staple fashion in Italy, French republic and America.
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  43. ^ Cunningham, Bill (1 March 1988). "Fashionating Rhythm". Details. New York, NY: Details Publishing Corp. VI (viii): 121. ISSN 0740-4921. The saddest moment of the spring fix-to-wear collections was the hackneyed offering of Yves Saint Laurent. What a pathetic decline for the former king of world fashion, who dominated design for...20 years. I couldn't believe that the same homo was responsible for what was paraded before the buyers and press. The loss of Saint Laurent's legendary color mixing, the rehash of decade-former designs, the afterthought accessories, left the audience confounded. 1 wanted to believe that Saint Laurent was non involved....[H]e appeared to have lost a very rare gift – his creative talent.
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Farther reading [edit]

  • Bergé, Pierre (1997). Yves Saint Laurent: The Universe of Style. Rizzoli. ISBN 0-7893-0067-2.
  • Milbank, Caroline Rennolds (1985). Couture: The Great Fashion Designers. Thames & Hudson.
  • Rawsthorn, Alice (1996). Yves Saint Laurent: A Biography. Nan A. Talese/Doubleday. ISBN 0-385-47645-0.

External links [edit]

  • ysl.com, official Yves Saint Laurent (brand) website
  • Trapèze dresses at Digital Collections at Chicago History Museum
  • "Yves Saint Laurent, legendary designer and Pied Piper of mode, dies aged 71", The Guardian: retrospective article
  • "Interactive timeline of couture houses and couturier biographies". Victoria and Albert Museum. 29 July 2015.
  • Biography of Yves Saint Laurent
  • Yves Saint Laurent Biography
  • "Yves Saint Laurent shuts its doors" – BBC Globe 31 October 2002
  • "All About Yves" – Jim Lehrer sixteen January 2002 Past Jessica Moore
  • "Yves Saint Laurent announces retirement" – CNN vii January 2002
  • "All About Yves: As the unequalled Yves Saint Laurent celebrates his 40th anniversary as a couturier, the world salutes his genius." – Julie K.L. Dam, Time magazine, 3 August 1998.

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